Seeing summer Through Rosé-filled wine Glasses
There is nothing like a good bottle of wine shared on the patio to inspire a column subject, and this week it was a bottle of bright reddish-pink - or was it pinkish-red? - rosé. The wine was a 2006 Gaspereau Vineyards rosé from Nova Scotia, made from 100 per cent Nova Scotia grapes, identified by the Wines of Nova Scotia logo of a lobster claw grasping a wine glass, on the capsule. We can't buy it in New Brunswick - yet - but it isn't too far of a drive to the Wolfville area (even shorter via the Princess of Acadia ferry to Digby) to tour wineries, buy wine and eat very well at local restaurants. I do it several times a year.
The Gaspereau rosé is particularly special, as the 2007 vintage recently won a gold medal at the 2008 All Canadian Wine Championships, putting it in the company of several of British Columbia's most respected wineries. It is a very fruity wine, with sour cherry and raspberry, good minerality, and refreshing acidity balanced with sweetness. I drank it with "beer can" barbecued chicken, but, like many rosés, it would pair well with a wide variety of foods. It is interesting that, unlike the B.C. winners, this rosé was made from relatively unknown grapes: Luci Kuhlmann and Dechaunac. It goes to show that it is not the name of the grape that matters; what is important is matching the grape to the terroir to make a good clean, balanced wine.
Hopefully the better wines of Nova Scotia will eventually be made in enough quantity to export and that Alcool NB Liquor will give a preferential mark-up to Atlantic wines similar to what Nova Scotia Liquor recently gave to wines made from 100 per cent Nova Scotia grapes, as a way to help grow the province's wine industry. Before that, the wineries generally avoided the liquor board due to lost profit compared to what they made selling through their own winery stores. For the same reason, most Nova Scotia wineries are not interested in selling their wines in New Brunswick. A reduced mark-up will encourage Atlantic Canadian wineries, including our own New Brunswick cottage wineries, to distribute their wines via ANBL. New Brunswick wineries do not currently do this, although that may soon change.
Although we can't buy Gaspereau wines here, there is a good selection of rosé in New Brunswick, all perfect for summer sipping.
Mateus ($10.79) is a slightly sparkling off-dry rosé from Portugal that you may remember your parents drinking when you were a child. Chilled and served in the sun, it is a super-fun wine, very fruity and not as sweet as you might remember. Continuing on the fizzy and pink track, Freixenet Brut de Noirs is a dry Spanish Cava that, at $16.49, is a great way to start a summer garden party. Similarly, Lavit Rosado Brut is a tasty pink Cava at only $16.29.
If you are looking for dry rosé to quaff or to serve with barbecued foods such as burgers and salmon, Jeanjean Syrah rosé ($12.29) and La Vieille Ferme rosé ($12.99) are excellent dry versions from the south of France. Moving to Italy, try the good value Masi Modello Delle Venezie Rosato IGT ($14.29), which should go well with a pasta in a rosé sauce.
Finally, if you are looking for serious rosé that has extended grape skin contact, and therefore some tannin structure, do a blind tasting of France's most famous rosé, Guigal Tavel rosé, $28.99, versus a similarly priced premium wine from Paso Robles in California, Robert Hall Rosé de Robles, $28.29). These are big enough wines to serve with grilled steak.
Wow! After this summer tasting you'll be looking at life through rosé coloured glasses.
Cheers!
Craig Pinhey is a writer and Sommelier, available for private tastings. Visit him at www.frogspad.ca.
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