D5

CRAIG PINHEY
GOOD DRINK

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As promised last week, I followed up my Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon tasting with a review of a range of under-$20 Merlots and Chardonnays. There was a time, not that long ago, when these grapes were synonymous with new and exciting wines from California, followed up by Australia.

These days New World wines are more worldly, with Chile, Argentina and South Africa now major players, and New Zealand and Canada playing lesser, but still important, roles. In the future, look for more wines from other South American countries, Mexico, and unlikely (at least in the minds of the average drinker) countries such as China and India.

In the '80s, though, it was California that ruled, and Chardonnay and Merlot were the wines people asked for by name at bars and restaurants.

Did consumers even know these were grape varieties? It doesn't matter, I guess, because they knew what they were looking for.

They wanted the roundness and richness, the fruit-forward, non-threatening palate that is low in acid and tannins, and the dollop of oak that typically accompanied the fruit flavours, adding sweet vanilla and chocolate to the equation.

Both Merlot and Chardonnay have suffered backlashes from wine drinkers, partly because of their soft, easy characters, but also because people like to feel they are doing and drinking something different. Still, there is a certain comfort in a smooth glass of wine.

I blind sampled six Chardonnays and four Merlots, with a Malbec and Cabernet thrown in to challenge me, and here are the results.

Two of the Chardonnays stood out as having the most character. The 2007 Stone Cellars from Beringer in California (not currently in stock, but should be around $14) has pleasant tropical - banana, pineapple - aromas, with some mineral notes and a round, smooth finish. 2006 Rosemount Diamond Label ($16.99), from the classic Australian Chardonnay producer, comes in the strange shaped bottle.

This is a standard Aussie Chard of good quality, with floral, tropical and mineral aromas and a clean, soft, warm finish, with decent length. Also quite acceptable were the 2006 Penfolds Koonunga Hill ($14.99) and the Wolf Blass Yellow Label ($18.49), both from Australia. Also tasted were the much simpler 2006 Jindalee Circle Chardonnay ($13.49) from Australia and 2007 Dona Paula from Argentina.

In the Merlot tasting, the clear winner was Don Paula from Argentina, which came from Bishop's Cellar in Halifax. Their 2007 Merlot is big and spicy, with big fruit and decent balance. It is quite decadent. Their Malbec showed well, too, with complexity and spice notes.

Also scoring well were the 2007 Jindalee Circle Merlot, with its ripe black plum aromas and round palate, and the Paula Malbec, with its soft berry fruit and slightly smoky, earthy aromas.

Cheers!

*****

Join me on Thursday night for the unveiling of this year's vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau at the annual wine and food celebration at Grannan's Seafood Restaurant in Saint John.

Craig Pinhey is a writer and sommelier, available for private tastings. Visit him at www.frogspad.ca.