Happy Anniversary Wines
Published Friday August 15th, 2008
As far as I remember, this is the first time that my wedding anniversary falls on the same date as my column, offering the perfect opportunity to talk about strategies for choosing celebration wines. Of course it is easy to just say "buy Champagne!" and yes, that works, if you can afford it, but it is increasingly difficult these days due to Alcool NB Liquor price increases over the last two years. Before that, we could buy entry level bubbly for around $40, but now the only under-$50 Champagne comes in 375- or 200-millilitre bottles. I love the stuff, but I have to be honest: it is not worth $60, and that's what you have to pay for basic brut (dry) from Moet ($65.79), Pol Roger ($61.99) and Henriot ($60.95). Piper-Heidsieck is the "bargain" at $53.29.
That doesn't mean we won't be drinking Champagne on our anniversary. We will, a generous gift of a vintage bottle we received a couple years ago.
On my own nickel, I'm much more likely to seek out alternatives that are similar in style, but better value. Among the best, in my experience, are Canadian. The ones made using the traditional bottle fermentation method (it used to be called Champagne method) in Niagara and British Columbia are dependably good, and typically in the $20-35 range. Henry of Pelham's Cuvée Catherine ($35.99 at ANBL) is one of my favourite sparkling wines, period. Peller Estates Ice Cuvée is an off-dry sparkler that is quite exotic, and a deal at $24.98. There are 10 cases in the ANBL warehouse, yet to be released to stores. We used to have the tasty Stellar's Jay Brut from B.C.'s Sumac Ridge, but it is all gone.
Nova Scotia's recently opened L'Acadie Vineyards specializes in traditional method sparkling Brut for $32.99 (plus HST) that is truly delicious, with lots of that yeasty, bready character - the reason people seek out Champagne. It is worth the drive to Wolfville. This version is made from the L'Acadie grape, which has great body and acidity. Acid is the backbone of great sparkling wine, and Nova Scotia might just have the perfect climate for bubbly.
If you don't care about that bready richness, then inexpensive Cava from Spain is fine, and it is especially suitable for making mimosas, or adding a splash of liqueur to make a fizzy cocktail. When I see people mixing actual Champagne with orange juice or in other cocktails, though, I shake my head. More money than brains!
Another option for an anniversary wine is something vintage dated with your wedding year. In my case it is 1992, which means that I might like to seek out an age-worthy Sauternes dessert wine, or a top red from a Bordeaux château. Actually, there are many red wines of premium pedigree that drink well after 16 years - the problem is getting your hands on them!
Vintage Port can last decades, but it is better to buy it young and age it yourself to save money. The less expensive Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Port proves much more attainable. A quick internet search shows many 1992 LBV's for sale in the U.S. for under $30. A search for a '92 Château Latour from Bordeaux yields a much higher price tag: $383.99 (U.S.), plus shipping and customs fees.
I guess we'll have to be satisfied with the 1990 Champagne that I have chilling. I'm hoping it isn't corked! That would be seem a bad omen . . .
Craig Pinhey is a writer and sommelier, available for private tastings. Visit him at www.frogspad.ca.
More Magazine
Search Articles
More CE Network Sites & Partners:
