Beautiful northern wilderness
Published Saturday August 30th, 2008
Travel Lush vistas, unique wildlife reward hikers atop Newfoundland's Gros Morne
ROCKY HARBOUR, N.L. - Our stomachs are rumbling after a strenuous trek to the 806-metre summit of Gros Morne, the highest peak in the national park along Newfoundland's stunning west coast.
One hiker jokingly suggests we hit the fast-food joint just around the corner.
It's an absurd notion in any wilderness, but particularly so here along this unique Arctic-alpine landscape where green vistas and towering cliffs overlooking water stretch as far as the eye can see.
Even surrounded by other hikers one feels like the only person on earth at the summit.
"There's the obvious visual splendour of coming to this magnificent view over one of those fiord lakes, those glacially carved valleys," says Sheldon Stone, a park interpreter.
"It's also, ecologically, really interesting. You start at sea level and you're in pretty typical boreal forest for Newfoundland ... and eventually you come into Arctic tundra."
The flat-topped mountain offers one of the longest and most gruelling hikes in the park, which earned a UNESCO world heritage designation in 1987 thanks to its extraordinary geology.
Stone says visitors have access to some 18 other trails in the park, but each year thousands of adventurers can't resist conquering the Gros Morne Mountain Trail.
The 16-kilometre round trip starts at a parking lot equipped with an outhouse at the trailhead. The entire hike can take about eight hours to complete.
Be forewarned, the two partially enclosed outhouses along the trail don't offer much in the way of cleanliness or privacy.
The park suggests hikers bring along a number of items: warm clothing and a windbreaker, preferably waterproof, to deal with unpredictable weather; food; two litres of water per person; a first aid kit; and a map and compass.
Sunscreen is also a good idea and sturdy footwear is a must for the angular rocks that lead hikers to the top of the mountain.
The mountain itself is closed to hikers until the beginning of July to protect wildlife and give the soil a chance to dry.
The first portion of the trail, named after former British prime minister James Callaghan, is a satisfying, half-day hike that takes visitors through a scenic, wooded area.
There are boardwalks over wet spots and staircases made of rocks and wood to ease the climb.
One hiker breezes past us and assures us that the hike only "gets better."
The tone of his voice tells us that "better" actually means harder.
We eventually emerge from the woods and Gros Morne comes into sight. From this distance, hikers on the mountain look like tiny ants clambering over a boulder.
This part of the trail ends at a so-called decision point where hikers determine whether it's safe to continue.
The peak can become obscured by fog and hikers are warned not to tempt fate by climbing the mountain - the second highest in the province - if they can't see the top, or if there's not enough time to return before dark.
"Do not underestimate the mountain," reads a sign.
From here, we're challenged by a steep ascent up a gully of mostly loose, fallen quartzite.
Increasingly spectacular views of the Bonne Bay fiord and the rust-coloured rocks of the Tablelands, which were originally deep beneath the ocean and now rest on land, beckon hikers upwards.
At the top, hikers are given a chance to experience Arctic tundra without having to travel to the Far North.
Plants and animals, like the Arctic hare and rock ptarmigan, can be spotted here.
"Gros Morne is the only day hike that's going to bring you to the real Arctic-alpine plateau, that kind of northern wilderness area of the park," said Stone.
A lone, woodland caribou grazes in the distance, ignoring the small group of hikers passing along a trail marked by rock cairns. We take in the dizzying, bird's eye view of Ten Mile Pond, but we don't linger for long.
After all, we're only halfway done.
It's not recommended to return via the gully, where rocks - or hikers - could take a tumble. Instead, a series of stairs leads hikers down another part of the mountain.
A rocky trail that passes by a primitive campsite eventually leads back to the decision point and the James Callaghan hike.
If you go:
Getting there: There's an entrance kiosk to Gros Morne National Park at Wiltondale. The parking lot to the trail is located seven kilometres east of Rocky Harbour, which is 30 minutes north of Wiltondale along Route 430.
Cost: The entry fee to the park for adults from May to October is $9.80. Fees will be reassessed on April 1, 2009.
Accommodations: There are a number of campgrounds throughout the park. Additional fees are charged for camping, with varying prices depending on the site. Reservations are recommended.
On the Web: www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nl/grosmorne/index-E.asp
More Escapade
Search Articles
More CE Network Sites & Partners:
